Each point is 1 percent of the loan amount. Lenders charge points as a way to make a profit, and borrowers generally pay points in exchange for lower mortgage rates.

If you paid points, the amount should be listed on the 1098 statement from your lender. This document also notes how much mortgage interest you paid. Both of these deductible amounts go on line 10 of Schedule A. (If the points aren’t on that statement, but show up elsewhere — for example, on your closing documents — enter them on line 12. Check the Schedule A instructions for details.)

Getting the maximum deduction

On a conventional mortgage (usually a fixed-rate, 30-year loan that is not insured by a federal agency), points may be paid by either buyer or seller or split between them. Even if the seller pays all the points, the buyer gets the deduction. Exactly how much of one and when depends on the loan circumstances.

1. The loan is secured by your main home, the house you live in most of the time.

2. Paying points is an established business practice in your area.

3. The points are generally what is charged in your region.

4. You use the cash method of accounting: You report income in the year you receive it and deduct expenses in the year you pay them. Most individuals do this.

5. The points are not paid in place of amounts ordinarily stated separately on the settlement sheet. That is, you cannot pay points in exchange for lower or no appraisal fees, inspection fees, title fees, attorney fees and property taxes.

6. The funds you come up with at or before closing, plus any points the seller pays, must be at least as much as the points charged. The money does not have to apply just to the points. It can include a down payment, escrow deposit or earnest money. But it all must come to at least as much as the points. For example, you took out a $100,000 mortgage and were charged $1,000 (one point). However, your lender only required a $750 down payment. In this case, you cannot deduct the full $1,000 points payment, only $750 of it. The remaining $250 must be deducted over the life of the loan. And you cannot have borrowed any of the money you paid at closing from your lender or mortgage broker.

7. The loan is used to buy or build your main home.

8. The points are computed as a percentage of your mortgage’s principal amount.

9. The amount is clearly shown on the settlement statement as points charged for the mortgage. The points may be shown as paid from either buyer or seller funds.

These point deductibility rules apply to loan costs associated with your primary residence. When the loan is tied to a property that is not your main home, the points cannot be fully deducted in the year the loan was made. Points paid on a loan secured by a second home or vacation residence, regardless of how the cash is used, must be amortized over the life of the loan.

Refi points

While points-deductibility definitely is a tax-saving option buyers should explore any time they get a loan to buy another home, a taxpayer who simply refinances also might be eligible for this tax break.

In most refinancing cases, a homeowner must deduct any loan points over the life of the loan. But if part of the refinanced mortgage proceeds are used to improve the main home and tests 1 through 6 listed previously are met, the portion of points attributable to the improvement can be deducted in the year paid. Any points related to the refinanced existing balance, however, are not eligible for immediate tax-deduction purposes; they still must be amortized over the life of the refinanced loan. These points-deductibility rules also apply to home equity loans or home equity lines of credit.

If, however, you use your refi to get some extra cash or take out a home equity loan or line of credit and then use the money for something else, such as paying college costs or buying a car, you still can deduct the points, but not all at once. The points deductions must be parceled out over the equity loan’s term.

To figure the annual deduction amount, divide the total points paid by the number of payments to be made over the life of the loan. You should be able to get this information from your lender. For example, a homeowner who paid $1,500 in points on a 30-year second mortgage (360 monthly payments) could deduct $4.17 per payment, or a total of $50 for 12 payments, for each tax year of the loan.

If you want the technical scoop straight from Uncle Sam, check out Internal Revenue Service Publication 530, Tax Information for Homeowners, and Publication 936.

The APR is intended to make it easier to compare lenders and loan options.  One should be able to call and inquire as to what a lender’s APR is and go with the lowest one.  Unfortunately, despite repeated attempts by regulators to establish usable and consistent standards, the APR does not represent the total cost of borrowing nor does it really create a comparable standard.  Some lenders will manipulate the APR, either intentionally or unintentionally by omitting certain fees from the APR, thus reducing the rate.

The best way to find the lowest rate and cheapest closing costs is to ask just that.  By asking a lender to break those out separately, you can better analyze and size up their offer.  As I mentioned in my previous article “Let’s Go Shopping”, requesting a Good Faith Estimate is the best way to accomplish this.

This is where the marketing aspect comes in.  Some lenders will use this compensation to subsidize the fees they normally charge.  That is why you can find lenders with lower rates and higher fees or higher rates and lower fees.  One way or another, you end up paying for it.  Essentially you’re just financing it into the rate, with less due out of pocket at closing.  If you shop long and hard enough, you can find the best of both worlds: a lender with low fees and low rates.

All of this is assuming a loan with no points as points should only be paid to buy the rate down.  However, this is usually not a wise investment.

Believe it or not, 65% of all mortgages in America are originated by mortgage brokers.  Because many of those brokerages are small businesses, they can keep their overhead low and effectively lower their margins.  This means lower rates and closing costs for consumers.  Although lenders quietly solicit mortgage business, it costs them much more to originate a loan as they have to maintain a larger staff to do so.  Therefore, they rely on thousands of mortgage brokers who in turn have “mortgage sales people” to find the business.  The lender pays the broker a commission for finding, processing, and delivering the loan to them. 

But not all mortgage brokers were created equal.  You still want to shop for the best deal as some charge unnecessary origination fees for their services.  But don’t be fooled, the lender is paying them for their services so you shouldn’t have to.

A true no-cost refinance is one in which the lender literally picks up all of the fees, with exception to your escrows (assuming you escrow taxes and insurance) and pro-rated interest.  So you don’t pay any fees; no appraisal, no credit report, no title search, nothing.

So how does the lender do it?  Understanding this requires knowing how lenders are compensated.  Most lenders are compensated by the banks and mortgage companies to whom they sell or broker loans.  Typical compensation for a lender who wants to be competitive is .75 – 1% of the loan amount.  This means that for a $200,000 loan, the lender would be paid $1500 – 2000 for originating the loan.  Each day, lenders receive rate sheets from all of the banks and mortgage companies showing what the compensation is at different rates.  So if at 6% the lender is getting paid 1%, then at 6.125% they would be paid approximately 1.5%, and at 6.25% they would be paid approximately 2%.  As you can see, the higher the rate at which they lock you, the more they are paid.

That is where the no-cost refinance comes in.  Whereas a traditional refinance involves a locked rate based on specific closing costs, the no-cost refinance is at a higher rate with no closing costs.  The lender actually quotes you a higher rate and uses the compensation to pay for the closing costs.  Using the example above, at 6.25% the lender is getting paid $4000 by the bank or mortgage company for originating your loan.  If the total closing costs are only $1600, the lender nets $2400 compensation from your loan, and you paid nothing to do it.  Or did you?

You see, you haven’t yet, but you will.  That’s because when you choose a no-cost refinance option, you’re getting a rate that is .25-.375% higher.  So you’re basically financing the closing costs in the interest rate, something that can add up over time.  Let’s take a look at an example.  The interest on a $200,000 loan at 6% = $1000/month and a $200,000 loan at 6.25% = $1041.67.  So the difference between the traditional refinance and the no-cost refinance is $41.67 higher each month.  That means that if closing costs run $1600, you would start losing on this option after 38 months, which is the break even ($1600/41.67=38.4).

So longer term a no-cost refinance may cost more, but in times where the Fed is cutting rates and they are expected to drop, you may want to choose this option as you can refinance over and over without trying to guess the bottom.